2 - 3 1/2 day guided alpine crossing, 1 or 2 participants per guide.
Jubilee Route to FitzGerald Pass, red.
Copland Pass route, white.
Jubilee Route from Aoraki Mount Cook to Copland Valley. The Jubilee Route is a new route across the Main Divide replacing the Copland Pass route. The Jubilee Route was pioneered in March 2003 by Anne & Gottlieb Braun-Elwert and Stella Sweney. We called it the Jubilee Route because its first ascent coincided with the 50th Jubilee of Aoraki Mount Cook National Park. Current snow conditions.
FitzGerald Pass links the grandeur of Mount Cook with the West Coast bush and the hot springs at Welcome Flats. It completely bypasses the problems associated with the old route over Copland Pass, i.e. the retreating Hooker Glacier, the steep and very dangerous moraine wall, and rockfall and flooding on the Hooker Lake shore. The Jubilee Route is also considerably shorter than the old Copland route.
Want to discuss options? Ring free on 0800 006 096. Contact us.
| Dates: | By arrangement October to end of January. |
| Fitness: | A VERY high level of fitness is required. For experienced hikers with mountaineering experience. |
| Group Size: | 2 participants per guide. |
| Cost per Party: (one or two participants) |
NZ$2400 (valid until 30 April 2008). NZ$ exchange rate. |
| Included in Price: | Guide for up to 3 1/2 days, rental of crampons & ice axe, vehicle transport Lake Tekapo - Aoraki Mount Cook, National Park concession fee, 12.5% GST, mountain food for three days. Not included: Accommodation and meals in Lake Tekapo before start on day 2. Bus transport at the end of the trip, hut fees. |
Aoraki Mount Cook from FitzGerald Pass
After a pre-dawn start from Aoraki Mount Cook Village, 780m, you walk up the Hooker Valley to the Hooker Lake. Here you leave the formed track and you climb over easy terrain until a rock buttress needs to be negotiated. The guide will belay you up the 150 m of exposed but technically easy rock until you reach snow slopes that lead to the north-eastern part of the Stewart Glacier. You climb steep snow and ice slopes and around crevasses until you reach a shoulder where the view opens up to the south face of Aoraki Mount Cook. A steep snow traverse leads to the final slope that takes you to FitzGerald Pass, 2109m. 7 - 8 hours from the road end.
From FitzGerald Pass it is a short and easy descent to the top section of the Copland Valley route. Here the guide will turn around and you will continue on your own. From the point where the guide leaves you it takes about 4 hours to reach Douglas Rock Hut. Douglas Rock Hut - Welcome Flats Hut takes 3 hours. Welcome Flats Hut to road end is 5 - 6 hours.
Day 1: Equipment check with Alpine Recreation, Lake Tekapo, 2.00 pm.
Day 2: Early morning start. Drive to Aoraki Mount Cook. Climb over FitzGerald Pass. Guide will accompany party to top of easy terrain of Copland Track. Guide will return to Mount Cook Village. Party continues on its own.
Days 3 & 4: Spare days in case of delayed start due to adverse weather.
Hooker Valley aspect of Jubilee Route to FitzGerald Pass
Participants need to be very fit in order to accomplish the crossing from Aoraki Mount Cook to Douglas Rock Hut in a single day (approx 11 - 12 hours). Previous crampon and ice axe skills are essential. We strongly recommend that participants do a guided Ball Pass crossing or Introductory Climbing Course with Alpine Recreation first in order to learn the necessary mountaineering skills and to allow guides to assess participants' suitability. The route involves climbing a rock buttress and a steep and crevassed glacier. There is a 20m wide section of danger from ice avalanches. FitzGerald Pass is a Main Divide crossing and traverses steep snow slopes. Hence, fine weather, safe snow conditions and good timing play a pivotal role for a successful journey.
Douglas Rock and Welcome Flats Huts, in the Copland Valley, are public huts which can't be booked. Hut fees are to be paid to Westland National Park. Climbers must carry their own sleeping bags, food, stove, fuel and cooking utensils to the huts.
Alpine Recreation provides crampons and ice-axes. A detailed equipment list and travel information will be sent upon booking.
We recommend to settle guiding dates well in advance since peak season times are often booked up. Please allow extra time in case you are held up in the mountains due to weather.
As the trip involves a pre-dawn start from Mount Cook Village, you need to book accommodation in Tekapo or Mount Cook Village the night before. Accommodation options in Tekapo.
New Zealand's Accident Compensation scheme will provide some assistance to visitors to New Zealand who are injured, but you are strongly advised to have full travel insurance to cover such things as your cancellation if an injury prevents you taking part on the trip; and medical insurance in case you become ill. More information re Accident Compensation.
Please see the FitzGerald Pass Gallery for more pictures.
Warning: Fitzgerald Pass via the Jubilee route is a high alpine climb. Only experienced mountaineers should attempt this route unguided. Good judgement to assess avalanche hazards and an exact knowledge of the route are essential. The route is not marked on the ground. It should not be attempted in reverse, i.e. descending after coming from the West Coast, unless climbers are absolutely familiar with finding the correct line. Missing the top of the buttress is a very serious proposition. Because of the climbing over steep terrain climbers' packs must not be too heavy.
