6 days guided alpine climb, 1 participant only per guide.
"Mount Cook is a world-class climb. Fantastic guide, extremely strong climber and great instructor." L. Freitag, USA. Ski ascent, October 2005.
Reaching the summit of Aoraki/Mount Cook
Mount Cook, 3750m, is New Zealand's highest peak and has special significance for NgaiTahu. Sustained glacier travel with rock and ice climbing. Participants need to be exceptionally fit, well coordinated and mentally and physically strong. Summit day involves 15 - 20 hours climbing. Please submit detailed list of previous climbing experience and schedule of personal fitness training. Aircraft access to Plateau Glacier recommended at extra cost. NZMGA/IFMGA mountain guides.
| Departures: | by arrangement. Contact us. |
| Start: | 8.00am Lake Tekapo. |
| Cost per person: | NZ$4000 (valid until 30 April 2009). NZ$ exchange rate. |
| Included in price: | Guide for 6 days, hire of all mountaineering equipment with the exception of boots, all meals while on the climb, hut fees, surface transport from Lake Tekapo to Mount Cook and return, National Park concession fee, 12.5% Goods and Services Tax. Accommodation and meals in Lake Tekapo before and after the climb are not included in price. |
| Aircraft Access (not included): |
Ski Plane rate. Helicopter also available but usually more expensive unless a group happens to be flying out when you want to fly in, so that costs can be shared. We strongly recommend aircraft access. Because of the roughness of the Tasman Glacier moraine, unstable rock on Haast Ridge and the time taken to walk in, most climbers opt to fly to Plateau Hut. Chances of a summit success are increased by flying in, because you can take immediate advantage of a fine weather day for a summit attempt. (If you walk in you really need a rest day before commencing your summit attempt at midnight.) |
Aoraki/Mount Cook, Upper Linda Glacier
Mount Cook is New Zealand's highest mountain, 3754m/12315ft. Although not very high by international standards it is its relative height that makes this mountain very impressive. From the road end at Mount Cook village to the top of the mountain it is over 3000 vertical metres / over 10,000 vertical feet that a climber has to negotiate. In addition there are long distances to travel on moraine and on glacier before any significant altitude can be gained. An ascent of Mount Cook via the standard route has significant objective hazards: In places you have to traverse under active ice cliffs, which are unpredictable. Climbers ascend the Linda Glacier during the night, leaving Plateau Hut about 1am, arriving below the "Summit Rocks" by first daylight. From here four pitches on steep snow, rock and ice necessitate fixed belays to the summit ice cap, then varying ice conditions of moderate gradient prevail to the summit. Just below the summit is an 8 m steep ice wall, the "Chandeliers", which leads to the summit pinnacles.
The 'standard' route via the Tasman Glacier, Haast Ridge, Plateau Hut, Linda Glacier, Summit Rocks takes at least three climbing days, with 12, 15-20, 10 hours climbing on respective days. To book a guide for less than 6 days is unrealistic as it allows no flexibility in case of bad weather, and reduces your chances considerably of a successful climb.
Climbing times on Mount Cook depend largely on snow conditions and crevasse situation of the Linda Glacier. During winter and spring there is often little difficulty in finding a route through the Linda ice-fall, however, skis or snow shoes must be used during these times. During summer months access is by foot. Early during the season, November - December crevasses are usually well filled in, however, deep snow can make progress very slow, while firmer snow during January and February must be weighed up against more broken and sometimes difficult conditions on the glacier. Access during late summer is sometimes cut off completely, particularly after a poor winter and a hot early summer. Weather conditions are usually more setttled during the later part of the summer and during early/mid winter.
Please note that Alpine Recreation has suspended all guided ascents on Aoraki Mount Cook until further notice. Our Director, Gottlieb, did this ascent in September 2007 and saw the unsafe conditions in the Linda Glacier, leading him to decide that for this coming summer he is not prepared to subject his clients nor his guides to the unacceptable ice fall risk. Even though there has been good snowfall during October, which has filled in crevasses making a better route through the glacier possible, it was the frequency and amount of ice avalanche activity (more than usual), which alarmed him.
We recommend that you aim for Mount Tasman or an alternative mountain or to participate on one of our Intermediate Climbing Courses and learn the necessary skills so that you may at some stage attempt one of the harder routes on Aoraki on your own. Such a route could be the East Ridge, that is not affected by ice fall or crevasse problems that you encounter on the Linda Glacier.
Check our latest snow and ice report
Plateau Hut, the base from which you climb Mount Cook is a public hut that cannot be booked. The hut works on a first come first served basis. Climbers must carry their own sleeping bags and food to the hut as well as some party equipment and their personal equipment. A new Plateau Hut was completed in April 2005.
Previous mountaineering experience is essential. Participants should have a solid background in the use of crampons and ice axe on steep ice. They should be
For ski ascents climbers must be of advanced downhill standard, they must be able to handle steep untracked snow while carrying a pack. Telemark skiers must be of expert standard. Skis can be used up to approximately 3000m.
Caroline Face and East Face of Aoraki/Mount Cook
Alpine Recreation provides all technical mountaineering equipment, incl. alpine touring skis, at no extra charge. The only equipment that clients are requested to bring are their own mountaineering boots. We only store a limited range of such boots. Plastic climbing boots are suitable for both summer and winter ski ascents. A detailed equipment list will be sent at time of booking.
We recommend to settle guiding dates well in advance since peak season times are often booked up. For arrangements with a set departure the company may allow a postponement of the climb in case of bad weather provided other guiding commitments permit this. Book now.
As our equipment check takes place at 8am on the morning of departure, you need to book accommodation in Tekapo the night before. After the tour, it is recommended to overnight in Tekapo again, or in Mount Cook. Accommodation options in Tekapo.
New Zealand's Accident Compensation scheme will provide some assistance to visitors to New Zealand who are injured, but you are strongly advised to have full travel insurance to cover such things as your cancellation if an injury prevents you taking part on the trip; and medical insurance in case you become ill. More information re Accident Compensation.
Please see the Aoraki/Mount Cook Gallery for more pictures.