New Zealand Guided Ascents - Mount Sefton

8 days wilderness climb, 1 participant per guide.

 

On fixed belay up the summit ice cap of Mount Sefton

Takiroa / Mount Sefton

Mount Sefton, 3151m, is an isolated 3000m peak towering high above the Mount Cook Village. According to Maori legend Takiroa is the guardian of Aoraki. While not technically very difficult, long distances need to be travelled with heavy packs over very steep and rough ground. A climb of Mount Sefton involves two open bivouacs at the snow line. Participants need to be exceptionally fit. Climbing days involve up to 14 hours climbing. Please submit list of previous outdoor experience and schedule of personal fitness training. Mount Sefton is one of New Zealand's premier wilderness climbs. We deliberately do not support aircraft access to this mountain. NZMGA/IFMGA mountain guides.

 

Departures: by arrangement. Contact us.
Start: 8.00am Lake Tekapo.
Cost per party: NZ$ 5000 (valid until 30 April 2009). NZ$ exchange rate.
Included in price: Guide for 8 days, hire of all mountaineering equipment with the exception of boots, all meals while on the climb, hut fees, surface transport from Lake Tekapo to Fox Glacier and return, National Park concession fee, 12.5% Goods and Services Tax. Accommodation and meals in Lake Tekapo before and after the climb are not included in price.

 

Additional Information

Descending down towards Scott Creek after a high camp

The Climb

Mount Sefton, 3151m, is best climbed from the West Coast. Prior to the climb we spend a full day on the lower Fox Glacier practising ice axe and cramponing skills in order to maximise your secure footing when you need to depend on it later on in the climb.

A 6 hour trek up the Copland Valley takes you to Welcome Flats Hut with its world-famous thermal springs. Another 7 hours of steep climbing takes you up Scott Creek, a narrow, valley, past numerous waterfalls and house-sized boulders. This is a truly awe-inspiring and intimidating place. Your guide's local knowledge is essential to find a safe way through the wilderness. We camp at the snow line. Following steepening snow slopes we reach Welcome Pass and the Douglas Névé.

8 pitches of ice climbing up the summit pyramid take you to the top of this isolated peak. Climbing this awe-inspiring mountain all the way from sea level completely self-sufficiently is a very satisfying experience.

We return the same way. The overnight stop at Welcome Flats with its hot pools is a welcome finish to a great climb.

 

 

 

 

Snow and ice conditions

Later on in the season the Douglas Névé can pose problems with crevasses. In winter the route is not recommended due to a high avalanche risk. Best time is from mid November through to mid February.

Check our latest snow and ice report

 

Huts

Welcome Flats Hut is halfway up the Copland Valley. Sleeping bags and a stove need to be carried.

 

Experience / Fitness

Previous mountaineering experience in snow and ice is strongly recommended. Participants need to be

  • - exceptionally fit, and used to carrying heavy packs for several days.
  • - well coordinated and have the ability to learn new skills quickly.
  • - mentally strong and well balanced to cope with an extreme environment and height exposure
  • - in very good health.

We strongly recommend to participate in one of our Introductory Climbing Courses prior to a Mount Sefton Climb

 

Equipment

Scott Creek

Scott Creek with Sierra Range

Alpine Recreation provides all technical mountaineering equipment, at no extra charge. The only equipment that clients are requested to bring are their own mountaineering boots. A detailed equipment list will be sent at time of booking.

 

Booking

We recommend to settle guiding dates well in advance since peak season times are often booked up. For arrangements with a set departure the company may allow a postponement of the climb in case of bad weather provided other guiding commitments permit this. Book now.

 

Accommodation Pre-/Post- Tour

As our equipment check takes place at 8am on the morning of departure, you need to book accommodation in Tekapo the night before. After the tour, it is recommended to overnight in Tekapo again, or in Mount Cook. Accommodation options in Tekapo.

 

Insurance

New Zealand's Accident Compensation scheme will provide some assistance to visitors to New Zealand who are injured, but you are strongly advised to have full travel insurance to cover such things as your cancellation if an injury prevents you taking part on the trip; and medical insurance in case you become ill. More information re Accident Compensation.

 

Photos

Please see the Mount Sefton Gallery for more pictures.

 

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