6 days guided alpine climb, 1 participant only per guide.
Climbers on Mount Tasman, Silberhorn Ridge
Mount Tasman, 3497m, is New Zealand's second highest peak. It is regarded as the country's most beautiful mountain, providing superb ice climbing. Participants need to be exceptionally fit and have a high skill level on ice, be well coordinated and mentally and physically strong. Compared to Aoraki Mount Cook a climb of Mount Tasman is technically more challenging but lacks the high hazard of threatening ice cliffs and the worsening crevasse problems of the Linda Glacier. The main challenge on Mount Tasman is the length of time one climbs on a very exposed ridgeline. Summit day involves 15 - 20 hours climbing. Please submit detailed list of previous ice climbing experience and schedule of personal fitness training. Aircraft access recommended at extra cost. NZMGA/IFMGA mountain guides.
| Departures: | by arrangement. Contact us. |
| Start: | 8.00am Lake Tekapo. |
| Cost per person: | NZ$4000 (valid until 30 April 2009). NZ$ exchange rate. |
| Included in price: | Guide for 6 days, hire of all mountaineering equipment with the exception of boots, all meals while on the climb, hut fees, surface transport from Lake Tekapo to Mount Cook and return, National Park concession fee, 12.5% Goods and Services Tax. Accommodation and meals in Lake Tekapo before and after the climb are not included in price. |
| Aircraft Access (not included): |
Ski Plane rates. Helicopter also available from Fox Glacier township (NZ$380), however, this involves an extra days travelling at extra cost (NZ$200). Aircraft access is essential. Depending on finishing point of the expedition additional costs may occur for returning to Lake Tekapo. |
Mount Tasman at dawn from Mount Cook
Mount Tasman is New Zealand's second highest mountain, 3489m/11469ft. The standard route on Mount Tasman follows from Pioneer Hut the Albert Glacier to Marcel Col. After a traverse of Mount Lendenfeld (3194m) one descends to Engineer Col and ascends steep the North Shoulder of Mount Tasman. The route follows a narrow ice ridge, hence climbers are exposed to the weather for a very long time while objective dangers from ice avalanches are limited to a very short section below the north shoulder.
A climb of Mount Tasman from Plateau Hut via the Silberhorn Ridge is technically more advanced than the North Shoulder route. It is regarded as one of New Zealand's finest ice climbs.
Climbing times on Mount Tasman depend largely on snow and ice conditions, approximately 12 - 18 hours. During winter and spring skis can be used to Marcel Col. During summer months access is by foot. Early during the season, November - December crevasses are usually well filled in, however, deep snow can make progress very slow, while firmer snow during January and February must be weighed up against more broken and sometimes difficult conditions on the glacier. Access during late summer, often the most reliable weather conditions prevail late February - April, is sometimes cut off completely, sometimes in good order after extensive summer snow falls at high altitude.
Glacier access routes usually pose little problems on Mount Tasman. Winter months July to September and summer months November to February are recommended.
Check our latest snow and ice report
Pioneer and Plateau Huts, the bases from which you climb Mount Tasman, are public huts that cannot be booked. The huts work on a first come first served basis. Climbers must carry their own sleeping bags, food, stove, fuel and cooking utensils to the huts as well as some party equipment and their personal equipment.
Previous mountaineering experience is essential. Participants should have excellent crampon and ice axe skills. They should be
For ski ascents climbers must be of advanced downhill standard, they must be able to handle steep untracked snow while carrying a pack. Telemark skiers must be of expert standard.
Sunset at Pioneer Hut
Alpine Recreation provides all technical mountaineering equipment, incl. skis (alpine touring or Telemark), at no extra charge. The only equipment that clients are requested to bring are their own mountaineering (or ski-touring for winter) boots. We only store a limited range of such boots. Plastic climbing boots are suitable for both summer and winter ski ascents. A detailed equipment list will be sent after booking.
We recommend to settle guiding dates well in advance since peak season times are often booked up. For arrangements with a set departure the company may allow a postponement of the climb in case of bad weather provided other guiding commitments permit this. Book now.
As our equipment check takes place at 8am on the morning of departure, you need to book accommodation in Tekapo the night before. After the tour, it is recommended to overnight in Tekapo again, or in Mount Cook. Accommodation options in Tekapo.
New Zealand's Accident Compensation scheme will provide some assistance to visitors to New Zealand who are injured, but you are strongly advised to have full travel insurance to cover such things as your cancellation if an injury prevents you taking part on the trip; and medical insurance in case you become ill. More information re Accident Compensation.