The Haute Route

A minimum number of 3 participants is required to run this trip. If the trip does not reach minimum numbers, you will be offered the choice of:
1. paying an additional fee of NZ for 7 days, or NZ for 8 days to run the trip at a 1:2 guide:client ratio
2. rescheduling to another trip/date
3. a full refund

* The maximum number of participants per guide is normally 4, however we will take up to 6 participants per guide on selected routes for private group bookings. While other companies will take up to 6 clients per guide as an open group (even on the more technical routes), we like to keep the guide:client ratio to 1:4 as a maximum as it allows greater flexibility and ensures we can travel more comfortably and efficiently across difficult terrain.

The tour, as described in the itinerary section, covers 2 travel days, 7 ski touring days (with lift access on day 1 and a short taxi transfer on day 3), 3 nights in hotels/chalets in towns and 5 nights in alpine huts. We have attempted to cost things as accurately as possible as per the itinerary provided, but can make no guarantees of individual costs.

The recommended personal budget while on the tour is €1,000. You may wish to increase this amount if buying drinks/alcohol with meals or pre-dinner snacks at huts. This amount is broken down approximately as follows:

• Travel to/from Geneva by train, day 1 lift pass, day 3 bus/taxi transfer: €170.
• 7 days water, snacks, lunches purchased from huts/in town @€20/CHF25- per day.
• 5 nights half-board in huts (dinner, bed, breakfast) @CHF70-80/€65-70 per night.*
• 3 nights bed and breakfast in hotels/chalets in Chamonix, Bourg St-Pierre and Zermatt @ €65/CHF75- per night.
• 3 dinners in Chamonix, Bourg St-Pierre and Zermatt @ €25/CHF30- per dinner (drinks not included).

While it is possible to pay for travel, lift tickets, accommodation and meals in towns by credit card, cash payment is generally preferred in alpine huts. As only the first day is in France, you may wish to convert most of your cash into Swiss Francs (Swiss huts will take payment in Euros, but will charge it a 1:1 rate with the Swiss Franc). The €1000 budgeted can be split approximately into CHF800 and €250.

Unlike New Zealand, water must be purchased at huts and restaurants. Many alpine huts must now fly in bottled water if they are unable to melt clean snow in the winter - it can often cost almost as much as the beer!

* A reciprocal rights sticker can be purchased from the NZ Alpine Club (if you are a member) - this will save you approximately CHF10- per night in each hut. Members of any European Alpine Club automatically have reciprocal rights.

Start: Argentière, France; via: Bourg St. Pierre; finish: Zermatt, Switzerland.

While there are a lot of variations, for many skiers there is only one Haute Route and this is it - the traverse between Mont Blanc and the Matterhorn. This has become known as the Classic Haute Route and was first traversed on skis in January 1911. It includes the crossing of the Plateau du Couloir - this key section, linking the Valsorey and Chanrion Huts, is a committing undertaking requiring all-round ski-mountaineering skill.

↑ Surrounded by mountains... the expansive view on the ski down to Cabane de Chanrion.

The following is a recommended itinerary. It allows for some flexibility with weather and conditions and if required, can be shortened by 1-2 days.

Day 0: Arrival in Chamonix

Travel to Chamonix, France (if you aren't already there). Evening briefing, final equipment checks, safety routines, discuss current weather and mountain conditions. Peruse maps and guidebooks of the area and finalize plans. Overnight in hotel in Chamonix or nearby Argentière.

Day 1: Ski Mountaineering Skills & Acclimatization

Ski touring day and acclimatization at altitude. Take the lift up to Grand Montets and the Argentière Glacier. Test run of equipment, recap on skinning and kick-turn technique, transceiver practice, crampon and ropework. Finish at the Argentière Hut to be ahead of the crowds the next day.

→ Lift access to Grand Montets (3200m)
→ Ascent: 400-700m, descent: 1000-1300m, 5-6 hour day.

Day 2: Argentière Hut ⇒ Trient Hut

A strenuous and exciting day involving steep climbing and rope work. Impressive views on a clear day across to the north face of the Aiguilles Verte and Droites. Cross the Col du Chardonnet and Fenêtre de Saleina to Trient Hut. The crossing of the Col du Chardonnet requires a long steep abseil or lower and can often be a bottleneck - by starting from the Argentière Hut, we're ahead of the crowds from the Grand Montets lift.

→ Ascent: 1000m, descent: 550m, 6-7 hours.

Day 3: Trient Hut ⇒ Champex-Lac ⇒ Bourg St-Pierre

If conditions permit, there may be time for a morning ski tour (a good chance for additional acclimatization time!) before the 1500m+ descent down the Val d'Arpette. In good conditions, this is a magnificent ski run, but can be challenging in poor conditions. A tricky section (you will be belayed up a rock step) to climb up to the Col des Ecandies and ski down Val d'Arpette to join the piste to Champex-Lac. A leisurely lunch and a chance to resupply for the days ahead in the picturesque town of Champex-Lac before catching a pre-arranged taxi to Bourg St-Pierre. Enjoy a leisurely afternoon in Bourg St-Pierre, recovering and preparing for the next stage. Overnight in hotel in Bourg St-Pierre.

→ Ascent: 50m, descent: 1700m, 4-5 hours (not including morning ski tour). Taxi transfer to Bourg St-Pierre ∼1-2 hours.

Day 4: Bourg St-Pierre ⇒ Valsorey Hut

A long, but scenic uphill climb to Valsorey Hut - a key passage in the traverse that will best be appreciated by mountaineers. It is climbed early in the morning to minimize the avalanche risk and avoid the hottest part of the day.

→ Ascent: 1200m, descent: 0m, 5-6 hours.

Day 5: Valsorey Hut ⇒ Chanrion Hut

A magnificent, albeit serious, day of ski mountaineering set amongst high peaks, passes and glaciers. This is regarded as the key passage on the Haute Route, which demands all-round ski-mountaineering skill, invariably needing the rope, axe and crampons. The 600m climb to the Plateau de Couloir is steep and exposed, and can only be undertaken in good conditions. After crossing the Plateau de Couloir, the route crosses the Col Sonadon and descends the Mont Durand Glacier to Chanrion Hut.

→ Ascent: 850m, descent: 1400m, 6-8 hours.

Day 6: Chanrion Hut ⇒ Vignettes Hut

Two options to reach Vignettes Hut - the 'classic' and most direct route, but also the least interesting (while still scenic), climbs the Otemma Glacier. The alternative and preferred route via the Serpentine Glacier is more interesting and difficult, but a worthwhile choice in good conditions and has the option of climbing the Pigne D'Arolla (3796m).

→ Via Otemma Glacier - Ascent: 900m, descent: 200m, 4-5 hours.
→ Via Serpentine Glacier - Ascent: 1350m, descent: 650m, 6-8 hours.

Day 7: Vignettes Hut ⇒ Zermatt

A long and magnificent day, often remembered as the highlight of the tour. Crosses the Col de L'Evêque, Col du Mont Brulé and Col de Valpelline with an optional ski ascent/descent of the Tête de Valpelline (3802m). Arriving on the final pass of the Col de Valpelline is quite exciting as the Matterhorn suddenly comes into view! Ski down the Stockji and Zmutt Glaciers to finish in Zermatt. Overnight in hotel.

→ Ascent: 750m, descent: 2400m, 8-11 hours.

Start: Argentière, France; via: Verbier; finish: Zermatt, Switzerland.

This is also know as the "Skiers Haute Route" as it is the purest skiing line. Being the least technical option, it is also the most frequently done and can often be quite crowded. It avoids the difficult mountaineering passage over the Plateau de Couloir, making this route option less committing and more suitable for those with limited mountaineering experience.

↑ Crossing the Treint Glacier plateau to the hut (just visible on the bluff ahead).

The following is a recommended itinerary. It allows for some flexibility with weather and conditions and if required, can be shortened by 1-2 days.

Days 0-3: Chamonix ⇒ Argentière Hut ⇒ Trient Hut ⇒ Champex-Lac ⇒ Verbier ⇒ Mont Fort Hut

The first three days follow the same itinerary as for the "Classic" Haute Route, as far as Champex-Lac. From Champex-Lac, the taxi will instead take you to join the Verbier lift system, followed by a short ski to Mont Fort Hut. It is also possible to resupply in Verbier (instead of Champex-Lac).

Day 4: Mont Fort Hut ⇒ Prafleuri Hut

We cross the Col de la Chaux and Col de Momin, before climbing high onto the Rosablanche (3336m). From the summit a great ski run down the Glacier de Prafleuri brings us to Prafleuri Hut.

→ Ascent: 900m, descent: 500m, 5-6 hours.

Day 5: Prafleuri Hut ⇒ Dix Hut

We make a steep climb over the Col des Roux before starting a long traverse above Lac des Dix. At the head of the lake, we climb steeply to the Pas du Chat, then traverse and climb to the Dix Hut. The difficulty of this day depends largely on snow conditions. With a lot of horizontal to cover, firm conditions can speed things up considerably with a long, gentle glide; whereas soft conditions will require more time on skins.

→ Ascent: 800m, descent: 450m, 5-6 hours.

Day 6: Dix Hut ⇒ Vignettes Hut

A magnificent ski-mountaineering day! We cross the Glacier de Cheilon and climb up to the Col de la Serpentine. A steep section (this may need to be climbed on foot with crampons) brings us up to our highest point on the traverse - the Pigne d'Arolla (3772m). On a clear day this is a stunning viewpoint. An exciting and scenic descent down to the Vignettes Hut follows - the hut is perched high on a bluff overlooking glaciers on both sides!

→ Ascent: 868m, descent: 636m, 5-6 hours.

Day 7: Vignettes Hut ⇒ Zermatt

The last day is again the same as for the "Classic" Haute Route.

Start: Argentière, France; via: Grand St. Bernard Hospice.

This is a more difficult and time-consuming variation of the Haute Route, but one that will appeal to those wishing to avoid using transport between Champex-Lac and Chanrion Hut. This magnificent variant leaves the "Classic" Haute Route at the Trient Hut and rejoins it at the Valsorey Hut (omitting Days 3 and 4 of the classic route). It usually adds at least an extra day to the total route (although it is possible for a fast and acclimatized group to bypass the Trient Hut and complete the Grand Lui crossing to La Fouly in one day from Argentière Hut). Despite being a variation, it is much more in keeping with the best stages of the "Classic" route, and due to its added difficulty, it sees a lot less traffic.

↑The Grand Saint Bernard Hospice.

The following is a recommended itinerary. It allows for some flexibility with weather and conditions and if required, can be shortened by 1-2 days.

Days 0-2: Chamonix ⇒ Argentière Hut ⇒ Trient Hut

The first two days follow the same itinerary as for the "Classic" Haute Route, as far as Trient Hut.

Day 3: Trient Hut ⇒ La Fouly

Cross back over the Fenêtre de Saleina to ski down the Glacier de Saleina before climbing up steep slopes to cross the Col de Saleina (3419m). Some ropework may be required to negotiate the final rocky section. A long descent past A'Neuve Hut down to La Fouly. Overnight in hotel in La Fouly.

→ Ascent: 600m, descent: 2100m, 5-6 hours.

Day 4: La Fouly ⇒ Grand St. Bernard Hospice

A long climb up the valley to Fenêtre de Ferret (2698m), then a short descent to the Col du Grand St. Bernard. Overnight in the hospice, which was founded by St. Bernard of Menthon in the 10th century.

→ Ascent: 1100m, descent: 200m, 5-6 hours.

Day 5: Grand St. Bernard Hospice ⇒ Valsorey Hut

From the monastry we descend to the Bourg St Bernard, then climb steadily up, passing the Cabane Plan de Jeu. We ascend to the Croix de Tsousse (2830m) before an enjoyable descent down fine slopes to Chaux de Jean Max (2300m). From here we cross the moraine rib leading to the nearby Vélan Hut to regain the "Classic" Haute Route for the final long climb up to Valsorey Hut. A big day!

→ Ascent: 2000m, descent: 1460m, 9-10 hours.

Days 6-8: Valsorey Hut ⇒ Chanrion Hut ⇒ Vignettes Hut ⇒ Zermatt

The last three days are the same as for the "Classic" Haute Route.

The Haute Route typically finishes in Zermatt, however continuing on to Saas Fee is a worthwhile extension and provides the opportunity to summit several 4000m peaks along the way. Completing the Haute Route as far as Zermatt provides good acclimatization and the Zermatt lift system can be utilized to maximise vertical metres. The Breithorn (4164m) and Schwarztor (3731m) can be done as a day tour from Zermatt or en route to Monte Rosa Hut. This ultra-modern hut is worth visiting not just for its close proximity to a number of Switzerland's highest peaks, but also for its fascinating architechture and environmentally friendly technology.

↑ Celebrating the summit of the Strahlhorn (4190m) during a traverse from Zermatt to Saas Fee.

Day 1: Zermatt ⇒ Monte Rosa Hut (or Breithorn/Schwarztor free-ride day trip)

Ride the highest cable car in the Alps to the summit of the Klein Matterhorn (3883m). The top lift station provides quick access to the Breithorn Plateau and the border into Italy. With an early start, there is the option for fast and well acclimatized skiers to climb the Breithorn (4164m), before traversing and climbing 200m to the Schwarztor - the "Black Gate" (3700m). A technical and exciting descent through seracs and crevasses follows down the Schwärze Glacier, with stunning views across to the Matterhorn. If energy levels permit, keen skiers will put the skins on and head up for another run below Klein Pollux before descending to the Gorner Glacier. Those doing a day trip, will continue down the glacier and the Gorner Gorge back to Zermatt, while those going on to Monte Rosa Hut (2883m) will put on skins and enjoy a scenic climb up the Grenz Glacier to the hut.

→ Ascent: 460m, descent: 1465m, 4-6 hours.

Day 2: Monte Rosa Hut ⇒ Saas Fee (Strahlhorn ascent option)

A long and strenuous, but rewarding day. We traverse to the north across the lower Monte Rosa Glacier bringing us to a rocky rib, which must be negotiated by climbing a section of fixed ropes/cables, followed by an abseil down the other side and the wide expanse of the upper Gorner Glacier. Easy skinning brings us to the Stockhorn Pass (3384m). A short descent to the Findel Glacier, then a long, steep and often icy climb up to the Adler Pass (3789m) brings us within close range of the Strahlhorn (4190m) - a worthy 4000m peak if energy levels permit (add an extra 1-2 hours to the total)! A long descent down the Allalin Glacier, then a short, sharp climb up to the Brittania Hut (3029m). It is possible (and certainly very tempting!) to spend the night at the hut, but it is only a short distance to the Saas Fee ski pistes, from which point it is all downhill to Saas Fee (1798m). Overnight in hotel in Saas Fee.

→ Ascent: 1448m, descent: 2390m, 9-11 hours.

Extra days: 4000m peak ascents from Monte Rosa Hut

Spending two or more nights at Monte Rosa Hut is well worth it, as it is a great base for climbing Switzerland's 4000m peaks, including the highest Dufourspitze (4634m), Nordend (4609m), Zumsteinspitze (4563m) and Signalkuppe (4554m). The ski tour to the high passes Silbersattel (4515m) and Colle Gnifetti (4452m) from which these peaks are climbed, is long and a full day is required for each summit.

→ Ascent: 1600-1750m, descent: 1600-1750m, 8-12 hours.

Chamonix and its neighbouring town, Argentière, are a great base from which to enjoy day tours in the Mont Blanc Massif and Aiguilles Rouges. The lift systems allow you to gain height quickly and spend a day ski touring at altitude, before dropping back down to a low elevation to sleep.

↑ Skinning up to the Col du Tour Noir - a great acclimatization tour starting from Argentière.

Col du Tour Noir

This is a popular day tour and allows a sneak preview of the start of the Haute Route. Take the Grand Montets cable car to the top and enjoy expansive views across to Mont Blanc and the Aiguilles Rouge. An exciting descent down through seracs brings us to the Argentière Glacier. Skin up the moraine wall onto the Glacier des Améthystes and follow it up all the way to the Col du Tour Noir (3534m). From the top we can see the Glacier de Saleina and the routes to Trient Hut and Grand Lui to the north and east and the impressive rock walls and couloirs of the Aiguilles Verte and Les Droites to the south and west. An enjoyable ski run back down past ice falls brings us back to the Lognan ski pistes, which we follow back down to Argentière.

→ Lift access to Grand Montets (3295m)
→ Ascent: 760m, descent: 2335m, 5-6 hours.

Vallée Blanche

With 2700m of vertical descent, this 20km long off-piste ski run is one of the all-time classic descents in the Mont Blanc region and a must do! Take the famous Aiguilles du Midi cable car to the top and enjoy close up views of Mont Blanc (the highest peak in Europe) before a stunning descent down the Vallée Blanche Glacier and the Mer de Glace. This can be done purely as a free-ride day, but it is recommended to pack skins for a short climb to the Italian border - this allows us to get away from all the lift-accessed slopes and crowds and for additional time at altitude.

→ Lift access to Aiguilles du Midi (3842m)
→ Ascent: 0-500m, descent: 2700-3200m, 4-6 hours.

Col des Aiguilles Crochues

A popular and classic day tour that provides a good introduction to the Aiguilles Rouge. This tour crosses through magnificent scenery with stunning views across the valley to the Mont Blanc massif. We take the Flegère and Index ski lifts to the top, then make a rising traverse to gain the Combe des Aiguilles Crochues. The final section to the col (2701m) is steep and is often climbed on foot. From the col, we make a gently descending traverse under the buttresses of the Aiguille du Belvédère, before putting the skins on again to climb up to Col de Bérard (2460m). A long and enjoyable ski run down the Bérard Valley follows, all the way out to Le Buet, from where we can catch the bus back to Chamonix.

→ Lift access to Index (2385m)
→ Ascent: 500m, descent: 1550m, 4-5 hours.

Col de Beugeant

Another Aiguilles Rouge classic - this pass crossing is significantly more difficult than the Col des Aiguilles Crochues, combining a technically challenging ascent with a steep descent. We take the Flegère and Index ski lifts to the top, then after a short descent and traverse around a shoulder we put on the skins to climb up past Lac Blanc and into the snowy cirque leading to Col de Beugeant (2807m). The slope steepens dramatically as we near the col and we must carry our skis for the final section, traversing across icy rocks with the help of the rope. The inital descent from the col is steep, but this soon eases to an enjoyable ski run down to the Bérard Valley. We follow the valley all the way out to Le Buet, from where we can catch the bus back to Chamonix.

→ Lift access to Index (2385m)
→ Ascent: 470m, descent: 1457m, 5-6 hours.