Category: Snow & Ice Belays

Category: Snow & Ice Belays

Research on mountain guiding and mountaineering techniques.

Safety Research - Pendulum Fall Calculator - Climbers traversing on the Mount Sefton summit ice cap

Pendulum Fall Calculator

An online tool to calculate forces generated during a pendulum fall with midpoint anchor failure

This calculator estimates peak forces during a steep traverse fall, including the effects of an intermediate anchor and a worst-case failure of that…

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Safety Research - Belays on Snow - Belays on Snow - Snow stake, mid-clip vertical placement

Belays on Snow

Snow stake, mid-clip vertical placement - update

Snow stakes are a Kiwi invention and have been around since the early 1970s.

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Safety Research - Belays on Snow - Belays on Snow - Snow stake, mid-clip vertical placement, standing axe belay

Belays on Snow

Snow stake, mid-clip vertical placement, standing axe belay

Who hasn't experienced this situation: Knee deep, soft snow, 'porridge', at the end of a difficult pitch, no decent anchor to secure yourself onto, you are tired, time is pressing.

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