Waterfall Ice Climbing Course

NZ$ exchange rate

Included:

• IFMGA/NZMGA certified mountain guide
• Land use permit
• Tent accommodation
• Local accommodation for any nights required during the course
• ALL meals (including snacks & energy bars) for the duration of the course
• ALL technical ice climbing equipment (with the exception of boots)

Meals and accommodation before/after the course are NOT included.

Green : Minimum reached - guaranteed departure.
Orange : Only 4 or fewer places available.
Red : No availability.

The Waterfall Ice Climbing Course covers a wide range of possible ice climbing skills. It is beyond the scope and time of the course to specialise with all these skills - these can be covered more in depth on our Introductory Mountaineering and Intensive Mountaineering Skills courses. It is more about getting onto the ice in a great setting to test your abilities. For climbers who already have considerable rock experience the ice skills will come naturally with expert tuition.

Instruction topics

• Trip preparation and equipment
• Climbing knots, hitches, belaying, rappelling
• Use of modern technical ice tools, crampons
• Alpine ice climbing techniques – basic efficient movement and tool placement, monkey hang
• Ice anchors – Ice screw placements, V-thread or Abalakov anchors, ice bollards
• Snow camping/bivvying

Optional topics

• Mountain weather
• Risk awareness and avoidance
• Route selection
• Avalanche awareness
• Multi pitch ice climbing
• Rock and snow anchors

Ascent options

Ailsa Pass (2190m). This pass affords an amazing panoramic view of Aoraki Mount Cook, the Mount Cook and Malte Brun ranges, and allows us to stretch our legs and enjoy some sunshine.

Avalanche danger contingency

Our camp is located in a safe zone, however the Ailsa Valley below our camp may be subject to avalanche after heavy snowfall. The avalanche hazard can be avoided by flying in to and out from our camp (not included in course price).

Bad weather contingency

Nature does not always agree with our plans, so we must be prepared and flexible with the winter weather. Your guides are very experienced at judging the conditions and will adjust activities if necessary. In case adverse weather or unfavourable conditions prevent a trip from immediately moving into the mountains, we may relocate to Rex Simpson Hut (at 1300m in the Two Thumb Range), where most skills can still be taught. If the weather continues to remain unstable and we are unable to access Ailsa Stream, we will continue to use this venue and cover the rest of the instruction topics except multi pitch ice climbing.

Access

We recommend flying in and out. If you choose to walk out, the trek out from our tent camp at the top of Ailsa Stream is via rough, untracked streambed, a descent of about 900m over 5-6 kilometres. At Memorial Hut you will be met by 4WD and driven back to Lake Tekapo via the Cass Valley. If you prefer to spend more time ice climbing on the last day, rather than trekking out, then opt to fly out.

Well Equipped

Snow camping with gas cooking, satellite phone, tents, thermarests and nonperishable foods.

Private Facilities

Our camp is remote so there is no risk of overcrowding.

First Day

8am gear check at Alpine Recreation's Edelweiss Lodge, 8 Erebus Place, Lake Tekapo. Any items of equipment that you have been unable to provide yourself will be provided free-of-charge. Your guide will discuss the current mountain weather and avalanche forecasts with you. Drive to Tekapo Airport and fly in to Ailsa Stream. Set up camp and begin with an introduction to climbing steep ice.

Subsequent Days

Build your technical skills and progress to steeper ice flows, gaining confidence in your new tools. If steepness alone is not enough exhilaration, try climbing with one tool or leading. Multi pitch options are also available to really excite the aspirant ice adventurer. An option of ascending to nearby Ailsa Pass for stunning panoramic views of the Mount Cook and Malte Brun ranges is an option if you are keen to warm your blood again.

Last Day

Wrap up camp and descend to the ice to pump out the forearms one last time before walking down the valley to Memorial Hut (4-6 hours) for our return to Tekapo by 4WD. Or spend a full day ice climbing before flying out.

Required:

• High level of fitness.
• Previous overnight hiking, trekking or tramping experience.
• Ability to walk/scramble over uneven, rocky and scrubby terrain, such as riverbed.
• Be prepared to climb and camp in cold conditions. Our guides are trained to keep people warm and motivated in winter alpine conditions.
• If you have no experience with snow camping, this may come as a shock... This is not a beach holiday!

Preferable (but not essential):

• Rock climbing experience is a bonus.
• Mountaineering experience.