We’d barely seen another soul since turning off the Tekapo highway. Hours up the Cass Valley in our rumbling 4WD affectionally knows as "Tigger", the outside world had slipped away — replaced by braided riverbeds, weather-beaten matagouri, and the towering backdrop of Mt Hutton and the Faraday Glacier. At the head of the valley, skis lashed onto packs, we began the climb to Lady Emily Hut — a private mountain hut perched high on a moraine bench above the valley, with nothing but wild terrain in every direction.

This was no luxury lodge. No helicopters. No Wi-Fi. Just four days of human-powered ski touring, far from crowded ski areas, in real New Zealand backcountry — and it was exactly what we came for.

 

Welcome to the Cass

Lady Emily Hut sits at 1,460 metres in the upper Cass Valley, tucked into the Gamack Range behind Lake Tekapo. Built by Glenmore Station as a private base for ski touring, it’s surrounded by accessible ridge-lines, broad bowls, and more than a few epic ski lines. The terrain is raw, varied and quiet — a rare trifecta in modern backcountry skiing.

From the hut door, we had direct access to playful powder slopes, long runs into the Scorpion Glacier below Mt William Grant, and enough skiing to keep us busy for days without crossing our tracks. No lift lines. No skin tracks ahead of us. Just the rhythmic hiss of skins, the crunch of ski crampons on crust, and the occasional whoop echoing off the bluffs as someone found a pocket of perfect snow.

 

Hut-Based, Pack Light

With food, sleeping bags, firewood and fuel already flown into the hut pre-season, we travelled light — a welcome change for anyone used to lugging everything in on their back. The approach felt more like a rewarding alpine mission than a sufferfest, and once we were at the hut, the place felt like home. A proper fire, full kitchen setup, and a large picnic table that catches the last light over the Southern Alps — comfort, without losing that sense of remoteness.

Evenings were for gear drying, avalanche chat, route planning, and swapping stories over a hot feed. We watched the southerly front slide in over the peaks, stoked the fire, and hoped for fresh snow.

 

For Adventurous Skiers, Looking for Real Backcountry

You don’t need to be a pro ski mountaineer to enjoy the Cass. If you’ve skied club fields or carried your skis into a hut before, you’ll feel right at home here. If you’ve done a Backcountry Ski Course or skied in the Two Thumb Range and are looking to get into bigger adventures, this is a perfect stepping stone. The guides know the terrain intimately, tailor the days to your ability, and keep things safe without losing the spirit of adventure.

The group dynamic? Small. Tight-knit. Shared ambitions. No pressure to send, but plenty of room if you want to. On our trip, some were bagging lines off Pt 2468 while others lapped powdery gullies closer to home base. It worked well.

 

Why the Cass?

There’s something different about the Cass Valley. Maybe it’s the scale — big mountain terrain without feeling too intimidating. Maybe it’s the sense of solitude — like the mountains are yours, just for a few days. Or maybe it’s just that classic South Island blend of high country and alpine: rugged, raw, and beautiful in a way that doesn’t try too hard.

Either way, if you’re looking for a real backcountry ski touring adventure — something off the grid, far from ski area crowds, hut-based and full of good snow and better company — this trip should be on your list.