Tag: technical mountaineering
Tag: technical mountaineering
Research on mountain guiding and mountaineering techniques.
ORTOVOX Safety Academy
A Partnership with Safety
We're proud to be partnering with Mountain Adventure and Ortovox to bring you the ORTOVOX Safety Academy — free, interactive, digital labs — Lab Rock, Lab Ice and Lab Snow.
Published: 13 Feb 2026
Pendulum Fall Calculator
An online tool to calculate forces generated during a pendulum fall with midpoint anchor failure
This calculator estimates peak forces during a steep traverse fall, including the effects of an intermediate anchor and a worst-case failure of that…
Published: 17 Dec 2025
Mechanical Advantage Calculator
An online tool to calculate component forces in pulley systems
This tool has been set up to allow users to calculate the mechanical advantage of a pulley system, while taking into account friction of its various components.
Published: 10 Mar 2016
Short Roping Tests
Experiments on short roping methods
Objective: Measure the probability of a guide’s ability to hold a fall using different short-roping methods and modes without prejudice.
Until death do us part
Dedicated to my colleagues, who lost their lives in short-roping accidents
Berg und Steigen #2/08 (English translation of text and captions)When we stand on the summit of a mountain, we have the opportunity to contemplate the daily grind of our lives with more detachment.
Moving on a rope
Dedicated to the memory of Erica Beuzenberg
Physics, techniques, applications, limitations and minimising the risks of moving roped together.
Gleichzeitiges Gehen am Seil
Überarbeitete deutsche Version (in German)
Anwendung, Technik, Physik, Grenzen und Alternativen.
Short Roping Tests
Statistics
Notes and data from a short-roping rope force experiment, including assumptions, comments, and analysis of various measurements such as body mass, technique, and falling mass.
Short Roping Tests
Video clips of short roping tests
Experiments on short roping method - video clips of the tests performed.
Belays on Snow
Snow stake, mid-clip vertical placement - update
Snow stakes are a Kiwi invention and have been around since the early 1970s.