Aoraki
Mount Cook
Guided ascent of New Zealand's highest peak
Explore Aoraki Mount Cook Summer Adventures Climb Alpine AscentsAoraki Mount Cook
Aoraki Mount Cook
Guided ascent of New Zealand's highest peak
Mount Cook is New Zealand's highest mountain at 3724m/12218ft. In local Maori legend, "Aoraki" is their most sacred ancestor from whom they derive their identity and status. Aoraki possesses power over life and death and represents a link between their natural and spiritual worlds.
Aoraki/Mount Cook is often underestimated by international climbers - although not high by international standards, it is its relative height and level of glaciation that makes this mountain so impressive. From the road end at Mount Cook Village to the top of the mountain it is over 3000m/10,000ft. Most climbers choose to negotiate the first 1200m by ski plane or helicopter to maximise the chances of success on the mountain.
The climb involves sustained glacier travel with rock and ice climbing and a 15-20 hour summit day. The level of difficulty can change dramatically depending on weather and snow and ice conditions. This is expedition-style climbing, where you have to be patient for the right weather.
Mount Cook is a world-class climb. Fantastic guide, extremely strong climber and great instructor. (Completed as a ski ascent).Read more
Plateau Hut
Situated at 2200m opposite the East Face of New Zealand's highest peak, Aoraki Mount Cook. A popular base for ascents of Aoraki Mount Cook, Mount Dixon and Specialized Alpine Climbing Courses.
It is a public hut that works on a first-come first-served basis and cannot be pre-booked.
Equipment:
Climbers must carry their own sleeping bags and food to the hut as well as some party equipment and their personal equipment.
Aoraki Mount Cook dates are scheduled on a case by case basis - please contact us with the dates you would like. We recommend that you settle guiding dates well in advance as guide availability during peak season is limited. Please allow extra time in case you are held up in the mountains due to weather.
Private bookings
Private guide: flexible itinerary
4 day option - your guide is booked for 4 days within a 6 day timeframe.
6 day option - your guide is booked for 6 days.
In both cases, dates are agreed on for 6 days.
Loyalty discount: If you have been on an Alpine Recreation trip before, you will be eligible for $100 off the standard trip price (does not apply to any already discounted prices).
| Private Guide Price | 4 days price per person | 6 days price per person |
|---|---|---|
| Private booking group size | NZ$8650 1 per guide | NZ$8875 1 per guide |
Deposit Payment
A non-refundable per-person deposit is payable to secure a booking:
- NZ$1,500.00
The remaining balance of the trip price (including any applicable discounts) is due 60 days prior to departure. If you are booking within 60 days of the trip start, the full amount will be due.
Booking conditionsInclusions & Exclusions
All prices include the following:
- IFMGA / NZMGA certified mountain guide
- National Park fees
- Hut accommodation
- Local accommodation for any nights required during the trip
- Ground transport (Tekapo - Aoraki Mt. Cook return)
- ALL meals (including snacks & energy bars) for the duration of the trip
- ALL technical mountaineering equipment (with the exception of boots)
The following items are NOT included:
- Meals and accommodation before/after the trip are NOT included.
- Flights are NOT included
Flights
Flights are not included in the price, as costs vary according to the venue, type of aircraft and occupancy. Depending on the venue, it is often possible to be picked up from a lower landing site on the return flight or to combine flights with other groups heading in to and out of the mountains to significantly reduce flight costs.
Weather dependent: As there is no guarantee of being able to fly (due to weather) and no obligation to fly, we like to be able to pass on any potential savings directly to our guests.
| Price per flight (the cost is split equally amongst guests) | |||
|---|---|---|---|
| Flight | Aircraft | Spaces | Price |
| Mt. Cook Airport to / from Plateau Hut | Helicopter | 5 | NZ$1,101.00 |
Please note: Flight prices are given as examples only and are subject to change by aircraft operators at any time. In addition to guests, each aircraft will also transport the guide and gear.
Recommended Fitness Training
We presume you do regular exercise and have hiking experience, but to prepare for this trip we recommend any or all of the following: regular exercise or a fitness training programme, eg. uphill walking with a 12kg pack on; weekend hikes of at least 4 hours; jogging (off-road/cross-country if possible for good footwork and coordination), cycling - anything aerobic, giving you a good heart-lung workout. Indoor climbing/rock climbing is recommended for improving and maintaining arm strength and developing psychological fitness for exposure.
Difficulty Ratings
Endurance: 5 - Extreme
Regular alpine starts with long and sustained days (14+ hours) on difficult or technical terrain. Expect to carry a heavy pack at times (12-16kg) between huts or bivvies. Consecutive days with ascents of 1200+ vertical meters in often steep terrain are expected. Prior experience with bivouac / snow camping is recommended. For hardened mountaineers only.
Agility: 5 - Expert scrambling/climbing agility
A high level of commitment required with serious consequences for mistakes. Frequent and sustained exposure to significant heights or large drops. Moderate - steeper (30-50°) slopes common. Concentration and focus required at all times. Recent mountaineering experience required. Solid footwork, cramponing (including front-pointing) and ice axe skills expected.
Technical Mountaineering: 4 - Advanced mountaineer
Efficient anchor management and fast adjustment of gear expected. Solid crampon and ice axe skills expected with ability to move efficiently across a variety of terrain and conditions. Confident climbing on rock (AU grade 16-20).
Trip Difficulty Ratings - more infoRoute Information
A climb of Aoraki Mount Cook takes at least three climbing days. To book a guide for less than 6 days is unrealistic as it allows no flexibility in case of bad weather, and reduces your chances considerably of a successful climb.
Linda Glacier
From Plateau Hut at 2200m climbers begin winding up the gentle (10-30°) Linda Glacier under torchlight following a 1am start.
Linda Shelf
Just as dawn is starting to colour the sky we move onto the much more challenging Linda Shelf. This 500m long ice-shelf requires us to traverse carefully along usually icy slopes of between 30-35°, demanding a high level of cramponing skill. This part of the route perhaps requires the most care.
Summit Rocks
Daylight should see us at the base of the famous Summit Rocks. This 150m high rock buttress holds 4 pitches (rope lengths) of mixed rock snow and ice climbing that provide a real thrill and require the use of two ice tools. This buttress is the technical crux of the route with short near vertical steps and a sustained grade of 60° or more.
Summit Ice Cap
After the technical challenge of the summit rocks the summit ice cap awaits. 25-35° ice and snow slopes lead you up to the top of New Zealand. The knife-edge summit ridge winds away to the south and the whole country falls beneath your feet.
Descent
The descent is via the same route and requires a lot of careful cramponing and some steep abseils to return to the comfort of Plateau Hut some 14-20 hours since you left.
Warning: The Linda Glacier route on Mt Cook requires climbers to pass below hanging glaciers. These glaciers collapse regularly and without warning. While there have been relatively few fatalities from these collapses, there have been many near misses. We will only climb Mt Cook when conditions allow us to avoid the bulk of these hanging glaciers, but some risk will always remain. There are other mountains that do not require travel beneath hanging glaciers. The choice to attempt the Linda Glacier route on Mt Cook is a personal one and should be made in the knowledge that these risks exist and are out of our control.
Aoraki Mount Cook - Clothing & Equipment Checklist
Your gear check time will be provided at time of booking. Please bring as many of the items on the equipment list as you can. We can provide (at no extra charge), any of the items in list A that you are missing. Reminder: all food is provided.
All technical mountaineering equipment (crampons, ice axe, helmet, etc.) is provided.
*1 Grade B3 Mountaineering Boots: an insulated rigid leather boot as per the Mountain Boot & Crampon Guide, eg. La Sportiva Nepal Evo or Scarpa Summit GTX. Boots must be well broken-in and waterproofed. While we recommend that you invest in your own boots for technical ascents, you can hire boots from: Gnomes Alpine Sports, Darfield; Small Planet Sports, Queenstown; or MT Outdoors, Wanaka. Book any hire equipment well in advance.
*2 Blister kit: we recommend Compeed and Leukoplast - available at chemists in Christchurch, Queenstown and Wanaka.
A. Equipment which Alpine Recreation can provide if you do not have your own:
| Item | Quantity |
|---|---|
| avalanche safety equipment transceiver, shovel, probe | 1 |
| backpack - 45L must have side tension straps | 1 |
| buff / sun scarf for protecting ears & neck | 1 |
| eating utensils mug, bowl, spoon | 1 |
| gaiters to fit over trekking / mountaineering boots | 1 |
| high lumen headlamp with spare battery | 1 |
| mountaineering equipment helmet, ice axe, crampons, harness, carabiners, slings, prussics | 1 |
| polypro / merino thermal leggings | 2 |
| polypro / merino top long-sleeved | 2 |
| sun hat | 1 |
| synthetic / fleece jacket | 1 |
| warm gloves / mittens | 1 |
| waterproof gloves / mitts with removable inner for quick drying | 1 |
| waterproof hard-shell pants full-length zip | 1 |
| waterproof pack liner to keep your gear dry | 1 |
| waterproof parka must have a hood | 1 |
| wool hat / balaclava | 1 |
| woollen socks | 2 |
B. Equipment you must bring yourself/Alpine Recreation do not provide:
| Item | Quantity |
|---|---|
| 4 season sleeping bag lightweight | 1 |
| camera | 1 |
| down jacket | 1 |
| drink bottle wide-mouth, minimum 1.5 litres | 1 |
| ear plugs in case of snorers | 1 |
| lightweight insulated sleeping mat if not going to a hut | 1 |
| personal first aid please provide your own blister kit | 1 |
| personal underwear | 1 |
| quick-drying shirt long-sleeved, for sun protection | 1 |
| quick-drying trekking pants / shorts | 1 |
| small dry bags for organising gear | 1 |
| snow goggles | 1 |
| sun and lip screen high UV rating for snow | 1 |
| sun glasses high UV rating for snow | 1 |
| technical mountaineering boots Grade B3 Mountaineering Boots | 1 |
| toiletries please keep these to a minimum | 1 |
How do I make a booking?
Simply click on Book Your Adventure, fill out the enrolment form, and pay your deposit fee. Once you have submitted your completed enrolment form and we have received your deposit payment, we will confirm your reservation on the trip. You will receive a formal confirmation receipt by email.
What happens if we have really bad weather?
New Zealand's weather is notoriously fickle. It is possible you could be delayed getting into or out of the mountains due to the weather. For this reason, we recommend leaving 1-2 days spare at the end of your trip to avoid disruption to other travel plans. Your guide will endeavour to provide alternative activities/venues to give you the best possible experience. In some cases, if all participants and the guide have flexibility with time, it may be an option to postpone the whole trip by a day (however we cannot guarantee this option and it is at the discretion of the guide).
In many cases, the weather may not be as bad as the forecast might lead you to believe - please remember that we are used to dealing with New Zealand's weather on a regular basis and know where to go and what to do to make the most of it!
Please see our Bad Weather Policies for more information.
What mountaineering equipment do I need to bring?
Please refer to the clothing and equipment checklist in the Equipment section. Any technical equipment you need to borrow (including ice tools, crampons, harness, helmet, etc.) is provided FREE OF CHARGE and will be issued by your guide at the gear check. Please note that we can only provide boots for less technical objectives and recommend you bring your own.
Do I need travel insurance?
In the case of an accident, New Zealand's Accident Compensation scheme (ACC) will cover the majority of costs (about 80%) involved with evacuation and injury treatment, even for visitors to New Zealand. However, we strongly recommend taking out travel insurance, as you still need cover for things such as cancellation if an injury prevents you taking part on the trip, or a close relative suddenly becomes ill; and medical insurance in case you become ill. Many standard travel insurance policies DO NOT cover high-risk adventure activities so be sure to check the wording of your policy.
More information on New Zealand's Accident Compensation scheme (ACC).
Recommended insurance providers:
→ New Zealand Alpine Club provides mountaineering specific insurance options for New Zealand or Australian residents.
→ Austrian Alpine Club provides world-wide rescue and repatriation insurance to members.
→ World Nomads provides travel insurance for guided adventure activities.
→ Insure4less provides cover for a selection of high-risk activities for Australian residents.
Where is the best place to stay in Lake Tekapo before/after my trip?
Alpine Recreation provides accommodation at Edelweiss Lodge, 8 Erebus Place, Lake Tekapo. This is also where your gear check takes place before departure. It is recommended you book the nights before and after your trip here to facilitate the gear check and to allow flexibility in case of any delay in trip start due to weather. To book your nights, simply answer the relevant questions on your trip booking form.
→ Other Lake Tekapo Accommodation recommendations. We strongly recommend that you book your accommodation well in advance, as Tekapo is a popular tourist destination and options become limited during peak season.
Where can I park my car?
Secure off-street parking is available by Alpine Recreation's Edelweiss Lodge. Please leave your car keys with us (in case we have to move your vehicle if someone is parked in and so you don't lose your keys on the mountain!).
What do I do with my spare gear while on the trip?
We have a gear storage room at Edelweiss Lodge for you to leave any spare bags or gear while you are on your trip.
Recent Adventures
Highlights from recent Aoraki Mount Cook adventures
