Turner Peak
Turner Peak
Turner Peak Guided Ascent
Turner Peak (2338m) is an ideal 3-4 day ascent which doesn't require air access. First climbed in 1913 by Samuel Turner and Darby Thompson, this mountain is part of the Mount Cook Range and looks straight up the Hillary Ridge (south ridge) of Aoraki Mt Cook, and is a fantastic vantage point for viewing the full length of the Tasman Glacier and many of New Zealand's 3000m peaks. Turner Peak is suitable for those who are experienced in using crampons and ice-axe and is one of the few peaks in Aoraki Mount Cook National Park with relatively straightforward foot access. Based from the comfort of private Caroline Hut an ascent typically takes 6-8 hours.
Caroline Hut
Privately Owned
Caroline Hut is the only guide/operator-owned mountain hut in Aoraki Mount Cook National Park and is available for the exclusive use of Alpine Recreation parties. As we are not using public huts there is no risk of overcrowding, facilities are clean and you have a guaranteed bunk.
Stunning Location
Located at 1820m on Ball Ridge, directly opposite the Caroline Face of Aoraki Mount Cook, Caroline Hut is a great location to experience the mountain views in comfort.
Fully Equipped
The hut is equipped with firewood, gas, solar lighting, satellite communication devices, Department of Conservation radio, sleeping bags and nonperishable food. A wood-fired stove means there are good heating and drying facilities.
Facilities
The hut consists of two rooms, sleeping up to 10 participants and 2 guides in total. There are no showers, but warm water and a basin can be provided for washing. The two traditional longdrop toilets have one of the most spectacular views in the country!
Turner Peak dates are scheduled on a case by case basis - please contact us with the dates you would like. We recommend that you settle guiding dates well in advance as guide availability during peak season is limited. Please allow extra time in case you are held up in the mountains due to weather.
Standard bookings
Loyalty discount: If you have been on an Alpine Recreation trip before, you will be eligible for $100 off the standard trip price (does not apply to any already discounted prices).
| Standard Price | 3 days price per person | 4 days price per person |
|---|---|---|
| Individual bookings group size | NZ$1995 2 per guide * | NZ$2500 2 per guide * |
Please read the information on minimum and maximum group sizes below.
Deposit Payment
A non-refundable per-person deposit is payable to secure a booking:
- NZ$500.00
The remaining balance of the trip price (including any applicable discounts) is due 60 days prior to departure. If you are booking within 60 days of the trip start, the full amount will be due.
Booking conditionsInclusions & Exclusions
All prices include the following:
- IFMGA / NZMGA certified mountain guide
- National Park fees
- Heated PRIVATE hut accommodation
- Ground transport (Tekapo - Aoraki Mt. Cook return)
- ALL meals (including snacks & energy bars) for the duration of the trip
The following items are NOT included:
- Meals and accommodation before/after the trip are NOT included.
Minimum & Maximum Group Size
A minimum number of 2 participants is required to run this trip. If you end up being the only person booked on the trip, you will be offered the choice of:
- paying an additional fee to run the trip at a reduced guide-to-guest ratio
( NZ$1,275.00 for 3 days, NZ$1,600.00 for 4 days ) - rescheduling to another trip/date
- a full refund
A maximum number of 2 participants per guide is defined by our safety management plan. For groups larger than this, it is usually possible to allocate additional guides.
Difficulty Ratings
Endurance: 4 - Very challenging
A high level of fitness is expected. Fit people will still need to train prior to undertaking this adventure. Ascents of 1200+ vertical metres are likely. Expect 10-12 hour days or longer, carrying a 10-12kg backpack. Early alpine starts may be required. Expect some discomfort due to long days and exposure to elements. Must be dedicated and used to long days in rough, untracked terrain.
Agility: 4.5 - Advanced scrambling agility +
Committing and challenging for experienced trekkers. Sustained concentration and focus required for difficult sections. Exposure to heights or large drops likely. Confident footwork and scrambling over rough, loose and steep terrain required (eg. pulling yourself up on vegetation, clambering over boulders). Crampons and ice axes required for crossing moderate snow slopes (≤ 35°), alpine passes and/or glaciated terrain.
Technical Mountaineering: 2 - Introductory-intermediate mountaineer
In-depth crampon, ice axe, self-arresting and climbing skills instructed by guide. Basic rope skills, knots, abseiling, anchor placement, belaying skills instructed if applicable. Ability to apply skills with coached practice and demonstrate proficiency required to progress to next grade. Prior rock climbing experience beneficial.
Trip Difficulty Ratings - more infoPrevious Experience
Turner Peak is a challenging alpine climb requiring excellent fitness and a solid foundation of mountaineering skills. Prior experience with crampon and ice axe use, moving on moderately steep snow and mixed terrain, and basic rope skills such as belaying and abseiling are essential.
Participants for an ascent of Turner Peak need to:
- have a high level of fitness (able to climb 300 vertical metres per hour with a 12kg pack and hike/climb 8+ hours a day without difficulty)
- have extensive hiking, tramping or trekking experience
- be able to walk/scramble over steep, rugged, untracked and exposed terrain
- be sure-footed, well-coordinated and have good balance
- have no fear of heights or problems with vertigo
- have previous experience using crampons and ice axe
Ideally, participants will have completed an Introductory Mountaineering Course, or have equivalent experience from guided climbs or personal alpine trips. Confidence in exposed terrain, good balance, and the ability to carry a pack on sustained ascents and descents over 8–10 hour days are critical for success on this rewarding objective.
Recommended Fitness Training
Climbing Turner Peak requires strong cardiovascular fitness, mountain endurance, and confident movement over steep and mixed alpine terrain.
Early-mid season (November-December) you are likely to encounter soft snow even below the hut. If you have never walked in deep snow before, then the best way to prepare for this is to walk through sand dunes or somewhere where there is loose sand, where you lose a good percentage of your momentum with each step.
Mid to late season (January - April), when the snow has melted back, you will encounter firmer snow and loose scree (rock) slopes in places. The best training for this is to hike over smooth rock slabs and rough stony riverbeds or beaches where there is an uneven surface, where you have to watch your foot placement.
In preparation, we recommend a focused training program that includes:
- Cardiovascular Conditioning: Build aerobic endurance through regular uphill hiking, trail running, or cycling — aim for sustained efforts with significant vertical ascent (900-1200m).
- Strength Training: Incorporate lower-body and core strength exercises such as squats, lunges, step-ups, and planks to support load carrying and stability on uneven terrain.
- Pack Training: Practice hiking with a 10–12 kg pack on steep trails to simulate the demands of summit day and hut approaches.
- Technical Practice: Prioritize training days with crampons and ice axe, ideally in real snow conditions. Familiarity with scrambling and efficient footwork on rock and scree is also highly beneficial.
- Flexibility and Mobility: Maintain joint health and reduce injury risk through regular stretching, yoga, or mobility routines.
Being well-prepared ensures you’ll not only summit successfully but enjoy the journey across the wild and exposed ridges of the Mount Cook Range.
Route Information
The intense and prolonged rainfall of 1-8 December 2019 caused significant damage to the traditional route to Ball Hut and Caroline Hut across Husky Flat. Alternative foot access routes to Ball Ridge have been successfully established, and Alpine Recreation guides are familiar with ongoing changes to the routes. The current foot access to Caroline Hut takes approximately 2 hours longer than traditional route up Ball Ridge and is through rough and challenging terrain (some sections involve pulling on steep vegetation, clambering across loose scree and negotiating large boulder fields). Please see this article for examples of terrain. If you are unsure whether your fitness and agility are sufficient, please contact us before booking your trip.
| Gear Check | Start Time | End Time |
|---|---|---|
| 6:00 pm | 8:00 am | 5:00 pm |
Day 1
5-7 hours trekking, 5.5km distance, 1200m ascent.
You'll meet your guide and once everyone in the group has arrived, your equipment will be checked. Any items of equipment that you have been unable to provide yourself will be provided free-of-charge. Good leather climbing boots are available if you do not have your own. All technical mountaineering equipment is provided (helmets, harnesses, slings, carabiners, rope etc.) but you are welcome to bring your own if you have them.
Drive to Mount Cook (about 1 hour), transfer to 4WD vehicle and drive as far as possible up the old Ball Hut Road, parallel to the Tasman Glacier. The effects of glacial recession are very evident as we hike beside the lateral moraine. Climb 850m steeply up onto Ball Ridge and to Caroline Hut at 1800m, perched right opposite New Zealand's highest ice face, the Caroline Face of Mount Cook.
Your guide will choose one of two routes (Waterfall direct or Cove Stream) depending on conditions and weather. If snow conditions are firm below Caroline Hut, you are likely to be introduced to crampons and ice axe.
In addition to our personal clothing, the crampons, ice-axe, helmet and harness, we will be carrying some fresh items of food (e.g. bread, fruit, vegetables, meat). The hut is stocked with nonperishable food, mattresses, pillows, sleeping bags, cooking and eating utensils, gas and firewood.
Access to Caroline Hut on Day 1 is subject to safe snow and weather conditions. The professional judgement of your guide will take into account all factors, including client fitness for the conditions. Please see our Bad Weather Policies.
Day 2
6-9 hours return from Caroline Hut.
A pre-dawn start to make the most of firm snow conditions. Climb Turner Peak (2338m) north of Ball Pass and take in the dramatic views of the South Ridge of Aoraki. Maybe explore a crevasse on the Ball Glacier on your return. Back at Caroline Hut take time to watch the sun set on Mt Tasman and the ice avalanches thunder down the Caroline Face.
Day 3
5-7 hours trekking, 5.5km distance, 300m ascent.
Return to Mount Cook Village via the Tasman Valley (Cove Stream, Waterfall direct or Ball Ridge routes). Depending on conditions and group ability, the guide may opt to take you back via a different route to your ascent. The descent routes allow good views out over the ever-expanding terminal lake of the Tasman Glacier. Finish back in lake Tekapo at about 5pm.
Extra Day
Choosing the 4 day ascent option allows for more time in this spectacular location and more flexibility with weather. For the 4 day option, you will typically spend Day 2 refreshing crampon and ice axe skills with an ascent of Kaitiaki Peak and time to explore the Ball Glacier, before climbing Turner Peak on Day 3. There is also the option to cross Ball Pass and Mabel Col on the last day (this is not recommended for the 3 day option unless you are exceptionally fit!).
Turner Peak - Clothing & Equipment Checklist
Your gear check time will be provided at time of booking. Please bring as many of the items on the equipment list as you can. We can provide (at no extra charge), any of the items in list A that you are missing. Your pack with your own gear should not weigh more than 6kg. Remember that you will be adding crampons, ice-axe, helmet and some fresh food (bread, meat, cheese, veges) to this weight, to end up with about 10-12kg to carry on the first day. Reminder: all food is provided.
All technical mountaineering equipment (crampons, ice axe, helmet, etc.) is provided. Sleeping bags, mattresses, pillows and hut shoes are at the hut. We provide you with a sleeping bag liner and pillow case (if you have your own sleeping bag liner, please bring it).
*1 Boots: must be well broken-in and waterproofed, and stiff enough for crampons. To test boot stiffness, hold them at toe and heel and try bending the sole like a banana. If you can do this, your boots are too soft. Please note that we stock boots ranging from EU size 37-48; if you have feet outside this range and do not have suitable boots of your own, you will need to hire boots independently from: Gnomes Alpine Sports, Darfield; Small Planet Sports, Queenstown; or MT Outdoors, Wanaka. Book any hire equipment well in advance.
*2 Blister kit: we recommend Compeed and Leukoplast - available at chemists in Christchurch, Queenstown and Wanaka.
A. Equipment which Alpine Recreation can provide if you do not have your own:
| Item | Quantity |
|---|---|
| avalanche safety equipment transceiver, shovel, probe | 1 |
| backpack - 45L must have side tension straps | 1 |
| buff / sun scarf for protecting ears & neck | 1 |
| gaiters to fit over trekking / mountaineering boots | 1 |
| headlamp with spare battery | 1 |
| mountaineering boots stiff enough for crampons | 1 |
| mountaineering equipment helmet, ice axe, crampons, harness, carabiners, slings, prussics | 1 |
| polypro / merino thermal leggings | 1 |
| polypro / merino top long-sleeved | 2 |
| sun hat | 1 |
| synthetic / fleece jacket | 1 |
| trekking / hiking poles | 1 |
| warm gloves / mittens | 1 |
| waterproof hard-shell pants full-length zip | 1 |
| waterproof over-mitts | 1 |
| waterproof pack liner to keep your gear dry | 1 |
| waterproof parka must have a hood | 1 |
| wool hat / balaclava | 1 |
| woollen socks | 2 |
B. Equipment you must bring yourself/Alpine Recreation do not provide:
| Item | Quantity |
|---|---|
| camera | 1 |
| drink bottle wide-mouth, minimum 1.5 litres | 1 |
| ear plugs in case of snorers | 1 |
| personal first aid please provide your own blister kit | 1 |
| personal underwear | 1 |
| quick-drying shirt long-sleeved, for sun protection | 1 |
| quick-drying trekking pants / shorts | 1 |
| small dry bags for organising gear | 1 |
| sun and lip screen high UV rating for snow | 1 |
| sun glasses high UV rating for snow | 1 |
| toiletries please keep these to a minimum | 1 |
How do I make a booking?
Simply click on Book Your Adventure, fill out the enrolment form, and pay your deposit fee. Once you have submitted your completed enrolment form and we have received your deposit payment, we will confirm your reservation on the trip. You will receive a formal confirmation receipt by email.
What happens if we have really bad weather?
New Zealand's weather is notoriously fickle. It is possible you could be delayed getting into or out of the mountains due to the weather. For this reason, we recommend leaving 1-2 days spare at the end of your trip to avoid disruption to other travel plans. Your guide will endeavour to provide alternative activities/venues to give you the best possible experience. In some cases, if all participants and the guide have flexibility with time, it may be an option to postpone the whole trip by a day (however we cannot guarantee this option and it is at the discretion of the guide).
In many cases, the weather may not be as bad as the forecast might lead you to believe - please remember that we are used to dealing with New Zealand's weather on a regular basis and know where to go and what to do to make the most of it!
Please see our Bad Weather Policies for more information.
What mountaineering equipment do I need to bring?
Please refer to the clothing and equipment checklist in the Equipment section. Any technical equipment you need to borrow (including ice tools, crampons, harness, helmet, etc.) is provided FREE OF CHARGE and will be issued by your guide at the gear check. Please note that we can only provide boots for less technical objectives and recommend you bring your own.
Do I need travel insurance?
In the case of an accident, New Zealand's Accident Compensation scheme (ACC) will cover the majority of costs (about 80%) involved with evacuation and injury treatment, even for visitors to New Zealand. However, we strongly recommend taking out travel insurance, as you still need cover for things such as cancellation if an injury prevents you taking part on the trip, or a close relative suddenly becomes ill; and medical insurance in case you become ill. Many standard travel insurance policies DO NOT cover high-risk adventure activities so be sure to check the wording of your policy.
More information on New Zealand's Accident Compensation scheme (ACC).
Recommended insurance providers:
→ New Zealand Alpine Club provides mountaineering specific insurance options for New Zealand or Australian residents.
→ Austrian Alpine Club provides world-wide rescue and repatriation insurance to members.
→ World Nomads provides travel insurance for guided adventure activities.
→ Insure4less provides cover for a selection of high-risk activities for Australian residents.
Where is the best place to stay in Lake Tekapo before/after my trip?
Alpine Recreation provides accommodation at Edelweiss Lodge, 8 Erebus Place, Lake Tekapo. This is also where your gear check takes place before departure. It is recommended you book the nights before and after your trip here to facilitate the gear check and to allow flexibility in case of any delay in trip start due to weather. To book your nights, simply answer the relevant questions on your trip booking form.
→ Other Lake Tekapo Accommodation recommendations. We strongly recommend that you book your accommodation well in advance, as Tekapo is a popular tourist destination and options become limited during peak season.
Where can I park my car?
Secure off-street parking is available by Alpine Recreation's Edelweiss Lodge. Please leave your car keys with us (in case we have to move your vehicle if someone is parked in and so you don't lose your keys on the mountain!).
What do I do with my spare gear while on the trip?
We have a gear storage room at Edelweiss Lodge for you to leave any spare bags or gear while you are on your trip.
Recent Adventures
Highlights from recent Turner Peak adventures
